With that, I have decided to give surfing a try again. It has been ages since I have been up on a board, but thankfully my dear friend Kevin has a soft top board that he was able to lend me so I can get back out there.
It has been amazing. I stand up every few rides and of course completely bust shortly after. If I am lucky, I can take a wave all the way to the shore, but those are few and far between.
I have honed in on Malibu Pier right now. It has knee to waist high waves, which is perfect for me and my board. Not scary at all and I am getting out there close to 3 times a week (so far -- I'm on my second week). Its awesome. And the people in the water have been amazing. Last time I was there (a million years ago), the guys in the water were complete jerks. Like the surfers in "Point Break," but this group has been the complete opposite. First off, tons of girls are out there which is very inspiring to watch. They are completely killer on their boards. Some are doing handstands others are walking the length of the board backwards and forward and everyone (guys and gals) treat each other with respect and cheer each other on when a great wave is caught. The other guys that are there a cool, too. I've gotten some great tips and have made some new friends! Which is always nice.
anywhooooo... stay tuned for more.
(photo: Jamie Shapiro and me - First day back at the beach - one was super excited to surf, one was a little nervous... I will let you guess which is which.) :-)
(that's me!)
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